![]() 11/12/2015 at 09:24 • Filed to: aw11, project car hell, mr2, 4age, blacktop, 20v | ![]() | ![]() |
Some of you may know of some of the issues I’ve had getting Charlie back on the road, but basically it all boils down to one big one that’s really a very, very tiny one. The engine did not include a little metal clip that holds the injectors in and seals them. Every price I’ve seen for the piece is like $2.65. Unfortunately, no one has them. In desperation, I come to you, Oppo! Does anyone here have any Blacktop parts lying around or know anyone with a blown motor who would be willing to sell me one of these pieces? It’s Toyota Part Number 22218-16571 (Cover (For Throttle Body)). It may have been used on other engines as well. I’m pretty sure it was also used on the Silvertop. Here’s the parts diagram and a picture of my engine where the part’s missing. Thanks!.
![]() 11/12/2015 at 09:37 |
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Main dealers should be able to order anything you need from Japan, if you don’t mind waiting. And they might charge you $5 instead of $2.50, but...
![]() 11/12/2015 at 09:41 |
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Have you got a local pull-a-part? Might be one in there that you can pull them off and pocket them.
As an aside, scrapyards are excellent places to get free fuses from ;)
![]() 11/12/2015 at 09:55 |
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I’ll ask around and let you know if I find any. I’ll take a closer look at the part on my blacktop tonight, but it seems like a pretty simple retaining plate so it might be tough to fabricate
![]() 11/12/2015 at 10:03 |
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Blacktops were never sold in America. They’re only in swapped cars, so you won’t find one in a scrapyard.
![]() 11/12/2015 at 10:04 |
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The tough part is that it probably has cylindrical end to seal onto the injector o-ring. I don’t know because I’ve never seen one off of the engine, but if all it needs to do is hold the injectors in, I might be able to make something work.
![]() 11/12/2015 at 10:16 |
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You should find try to find a speed shop that specializes in import motors. They probably can CNC a custom plate. Or you should make an international call and hit up Toyota New Zealand. I believe black tops were sold in NZ and they would have back stock.
![]() 11/12/2015 at 10:16 |
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I sent a message to an old friend in Jacksonville so I’ll let you know if he has any to spare.
If he doesn’t have any, then I’ll take a close look at mine. If its a simple enough part I can take some detailed dimensions for you
![]() 11/12/2015 at 10:21 |
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Awesome! Thanks!
![]() 11/12/2015 at 10:49 |
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Bummer :S any similar engines you might be able to find?
![]() 11/12/2015 at 11:06 |
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Nope :/
![]() 11/12/2015 at 19:54 |
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Also South Africa.
![]() 11/16/2015 at 09:12 |
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They guy didn’t have any, he just said to check club4ag.
I didn’t get a chance to take one off mine to measure it but I took a close look at it and it really is essentially just a flat plate. you could fab something up pretty easily that may not be perfect, but it would get you on the road until you find the actual parts.
![]() 11/16/2015 at 10:04 |
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Thanks for checking! Yeah, I get the feeling that I could just fab something up that will work just fine. I’m just unsure of the underside where it meets the o-ring and don’t want gas squirting all over my engine compartment.
![]() 12/03/2015 at 14:38 |
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Finally found an ITB setup with the covers, so I’m ordering that. Hopefully Charlie will be back on the road in a few weeks!
![]() 12/03/2015 at 14:45 |
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Nice! put that sucker back together and go find that lovely new redline!
![]() 12/03/2015 at 15:00 |
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I’m going to do some research into the actual safe redline. I want to run it to over 9000 if I can. Supposedly the 16V cranks are good for 9k stock, so with ten years between internals designs, I can see the later one being solid past factory redline.
![]() 12/03/2015 at 15:16 |
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I’m pretty confident the engine can handle going to 9-10k but I think the stock cams start to fall off after 8000-8200 ish before the rev-limiter cuts in around 8400. At least I think thats when it cuts in. If I’m hitting the limiter I’m usually paying more attention to the road or track and not staring at the dash.
![]() 12/03/2015 at 15:17 |
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Interesting.... Does it seem like a cam timing thing that can be changed with different cams, or do you think the valve springs are near their limit?
![]() 12/03/2015 at 15:33 |
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It could be valve float, but my gut feel is that its hitting the limit of what the stock lift cams can flow. If you put on an adjustable exhaust cam gear and played with the cam and ignition timing you might be able to squeeze a bit more out of it but I don’t think you’re gonna get much more without bigger cams and/or more compression ratio.
My plan (after I sort out my suspension) to get more power out of the motor is to get some higher lift cams (Yoshi/Matrix Garage has some he claims are great, but I haven’t seen a dyno plot yet), adjustable exhaust cam sprocket, new valve springs, a slight head shave and/or thinner headgasket to bump up the compression ratio. All of that would require a new standalone ECU and a proper tune.
![]() 12/03/2015 at 15:38 |
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I’m not sure how far I want to go with the BT. I’m thinking it’s going to be an engine for a year or two while I try to rebuild the 16V. I want to rebuild the original motor as a 9k RPM twin-charged monster.
![]() 12/03/2015 at 15:54 |
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Since I’m running in SSM my current plan is to get some 13x8 wheels with slicks and get the suspension sorted and try to shed some weight and see how well I do this next year.
If that goes well I’ll start looking at cranking up the horsepower to try to keep up with the Vettes. I’m considering turbo’ing the blacktop too. Who knows, I’ve even been looking into doing a 20v 7AGE build. I like the motor, but a little more low end grunt would be nice